The Problem
Your skirting boards are chipped, yellowed, or half-pulled off by the previous owner's DIY attempt. You're wondering whether to replace them yourself or get someone in.
I've replaced skirting boards in hundreds of homes across Croydon, Purley, Kenley and Caterham. Some customers have done it themselves and done a brilliant job. Others have spent a weekend struggling, bought £200 worth of tools they'll never use again, and called us to fix the gaps, the wonky corners, and the nail holes they couldn't fill properly.
This guide gives you the honest truth about DIY vs professional skirting board replacement. What it costs, how long it takes, what tools you need, and the mistakes that turn a Saturday job into a two-week ordeal.
How Skirting Board Replacement Works (The Process)
Step 1: Remove the old skirting.
Score along the top edge where the skirting meets the wall with a sharp knife. This breaks the paint seal. Then use a crowbar or chisel to prise the skirting away from the wall, starting at one end. Work carefully — old plaster can crumble, and you don't want to take chunks of wall with it.
If the skirting is nailed, you'll need to cut through the nails with a hacksaw blade or pull them out. If it's screwed, unscrew it. If it's glued, you'll need a heat gun and patience — and you'll probably damage the wall behind it.
Step 2: Prepare the wall.
Fill any holes or damage left by removing the old skirting. Sand smooth. If the wall is uneven, the new skirting won't sit flush. This is where most DIY jobs start to look amateur — the gap between the skirting top and the wall.
Step 3: Measure and cut.
Measure each wall section. Measure again. Write it down. Cut the skirting to length with a mitre saw for clean, square cuts. For external corners (the corner of a room), cut at 45 degrees. For internal corners (where two walls meet inside the room), use a scribe joint — one piece is cut square, the other is shaped to fit around it with a coping saw. This is the tricky bit. Get it wrong and the corner gap is visible forever.
Step 4: Fix the skirting.
Drill pilot holes, then fix with nails or screws. Countersink the holes so they can be filled and painted. Use a spirit level to make sure the skirting is straight — walls are rarely perfectly vertical, so you might need to pack behind the skirting with thin wedges to keep it level.
Step 5: Fill and finish.
Fill nail holes, screw holes, and gaps with a flexible decorator's caulk or wood filler. Sand smooth. Apply primer, undercoat, and two topcoats of paint. The finish is what people see. A perfectly fitted skirting board with a bad paint job looks cheap. A slightly imperfect skirting with a flawless paint job looks professional.
Why DIY Is Tempting (And When It Makes Sense)
It's cheaper — if you already have the tools.
A single room costs £30–£60 in materials (skirting boards, caulk, filler). If you already own a mitre saw, coping saw, drill, and nail gun, the labour is free. For one room, a professional might charge £250–£450. DIY saves money if you have the tools and the skills.
It's satisfying.
There's genuine satisfaction in doing it yourself. If you're handy, have done similar jobs, and enjoy the work, go for it. Just be realistic about the time it takes.
You control the timing.
No waiting for tradesmen, no scheduling around other work. You can do it on your own schedule.
When DIY makes sense:
- One room, straightforward rectangular shape, no bay windows or awkward angles
- You already own the tools (mitre saw, coping saw, drill, nail gun)
- You have experience with woodwork and finishing
- The walls are straight and the floor is level
- You have time — a single room takes a competent DIYer a full weekend
Why DIY Goes Wrong (The Common Mistakes)
1. Underestimating the time.
A professional can replace skirting in a standard room in 4–6 hours. A competent DIYer takes 2 days. A beginner takes a weekend plus evenings. And that's assuming nothing goes wrong. If the wall is uneven, the floor is wonky, or the corners aren't square, add another day.
2. Wrong tools.
You need a mitre saw for clean cuts. A hand saw and mitre box won't give you the accuracy you need. You need a coping saw for internal corners. You need a nail gun or at least a drill and countersink bit. You need a spirit level, a tape measure, a sharp pencil, and a caulking gun. Buying all these for one job costs £150–£300. For two rooms, it starts to make sense. For one room, it's cheaper to hire someone.
3. Bad corners.
The mitre joint on an external corner is straightforward. The scribe joint on an internal corner is not. If you don't know what a scribe joint is, watch three YouTube videos and practise on scrap wood before touching the actual skirting. A bad corner gap ruins the whole look.
4. Gaps between skirting and wall.
Walls are rarely straight. Old Surrey homes in Warlingham and Redhill have walls that bow, dip, and change angle. If the skirting doesn't sit flush, you get a visible gap. Professionals use thin wedges behind the skirting to bring it level, then caulk the top edge. Caulk hides a 2–3mm gap. It doesn't hide a 10mm gap.
5. Damaging the wall.
Old plaster crumbles when you crowbar the skirting off. If the wall is wallpapered, the paper tears. If you've just decorated the room, removing the skirting undoes your paintwork. You need to repaint the bottom 10cm of the wall after fitting new skirting.
6. Finishing badly.
Filling nail holes sounds simple. Doing it so they're invisible after painting is not. You need to countersink, fill with the right filler, sand flush, prime, undercoat, and topcoat. Miss any step and the holes show through. The same applies to the top edge where skirting meets wall — caulk it neatly or the line looks messy.
When to Hire a Professional
Multiple rooms.
The cost of tools for one room is the same as for five rooms. A professional has the tools, the van, and the experience to do multiple rooms efficiently. The cost per room drops significantly.
Period properties.
Victorian and Edwardian homes in Croydon and Caterham often have original skirting boards with detailed mouldings. Matching these requires skill and sometimes custom-made timber. A professional can source matching profiles or make them. You can't buy these at B&Q.
Bay windows and angled walls.
Bay windows have multiple angled corners. Each corner needs precise mitres. Get one angle wrong and the whole bay looks wrong. Professionals measure, cut, and adjust on-site. DIYers measure, cut, realise it's wrong, cut again, run out of material, and call someone.
You're already decorating the room.
If you're painting the walls, ceiling, and woodwork, it makes sense to have the skirting replaced by the same person who does the decorating. They can remove the old skirting, prepare the walls, fit the new skirting, and paint it all as part of the same job. No gaps between trades, no scheduling conflicts, and the finish is consistent. Take a look at our interior painting and decorating service to see how we handle it.
High-quality finish required.
If you've just spent £3,000 on a new kitchen, you don't want wonky skirting boards around it. The finishing details are what make a room look expensive or cheap. Professional carpentry and decorating is worth it for the visible areas. For structural woodwork, our carpentry service can help.
Cost Comparison: DIY vs Professional
These professional prices are based on a painter-decorator day rate of £250–£350 in the Surrey/London-fringe market, plus materials. Skirting board replacement sits between carpentry and decorating — it needs both skills to look right.
| Cost Item | DIY | Professional | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Skirting boards (standard room) | £30–£60 | £30–£60 | Material cost is the same. |
| Caulk, filler, sandpaper | £15–£25 | Included | Professionals buy trade quantities. |
| Primer, undercoat, topcoat | £20–£40 | Included | Part of the decorating quote. |
| Tools (if buying new) | £150–£300 | N/A | Mitre saw, coping saw, drill, nail gun, etc. |
| Time | 2 days | 4–6 hours | Your time has value. A weekend of your time is worth something. |
| Labour | £0 | £250–£450 per room | Includes fitting, filling, priming, painting. |
| Total (1 room) | £215–£425 | £250–£475 | DIY is cheaper only if you already own the tools. |
| Total (3 rooms) | £295–£505 | £600–£950 | Professional becomes better value as quantity increases. |
| Total (5 rooms) | £375–£585 | £900–£1,250 | Professional is clearly better value at scale. |
Important: These are guide prices. The actual cost depends on the skirting profile, the room size, the wall condition, whether the floor needs packing, and whether you want the skirting painted as part of the job. The only way to get an accurate figure is to get in touch for a bespoke quote.
"I always tell customers: if you've got one room, you're handy, and you already own the tools, have a go. It's a good skill to learn. But if you've got three rooms, a bay window, or you've just had the room decorated, get us in. We'll do it in a day, the corners will be perfect, and the finish will match the rest of the room. We've got the tools, the experience, and we can do the painting as part of the same job. The last thing you want is to spend a weekend struggling, then call us to fix the gaps anyway."
— Fred, Recommended Tradesmen, Kenley
What Type of Skirting Board Should You Choose?
MDF skirting:
Cheap, uniform, easy to paint. Doesn't warp or twist. But it's not as hard-wearing as timber, and if it gets wet (leaks, mopping), it swells and crumbles. Fine for most modern homes. Costs £5–£15 per metre.
Softwood skirting (pine):
Traditional, takes paint well, easy to work with. Can dent and mark more easily than hardwood. Needs knotting solution before painting to stop resin bleeding through. Costs £8–£20 per metre.
Hardwood skirting (oak, walnut):
Beautiful, durable, can be stained or varnished rather than painted. Expensive. Harder to cut and shape. Usually left natural or oiled rather than painted. Costs £20–£50+ per metre.
Profile styles:
- Torus (rounded top): Most common, suits modern and traditional homes.
- Ogee (S-shaped curve): Traditional, suits period properties.
- Chamfered (angled top): Modern, clean lines.
- Bullnose (fully rounded): Very modern, minimalist.
- Custom profile: Matching original Victorian or Edwardian skirting. Requires a specialist supplier or custom milling.
Height: Standard is 119mm (about 4.7 inches). Taller skirting (145mm, 170mm, 220mm) looks more traditional and covers more wall imperfections. Shorter skirting (70mm, 95mm) suits modern, minimalist interiors.
Our recommendation for Surrey homes:
- Modern homes: MDF or softwood, chamfered or torus profile, 119mm or 145mm
- Period homes: Softwood or hardwood, ogee or custom profile, 145mm or 170mm, painted or stained to match original
- Buy extra: Always order 10% more than you measure. Cuts go wrong, walls are longer than they look, and you'll need spare pieces for the next room.
Related Posts
How Much Does It Cost to Paint a Room in Surrey? (2026 Price Guide)
Full room decorating costs, including skirting painting
Property Refurbishment in Surrey: Where to Start
If skirting replacement is part of a larger renovation
DIY vs Professional: When to Hire a Painter
General guide to deciding which jobs to tackle yourself
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace skirting boards myself?
Yes, if you have the tools and experience. For a single room with straight walls and no awkward corners, a competent DIYer can replace skirting boards in a weekend. You'll need a mitre saw, coping saw, drill, nail gun or hammer, spirit level, and various fillers and caulk. The tricky parts are the internal corners (which need scribe joints), getting the skirting level on uneven walls, and achieving a professional paint finish. If you don't already own the tools, hiring a professional is often cheaper for one room.
How much does it cost to replace skirting boards professionally?
A professional charges £250–£450 per room for standard MDF or softwood skirting, including removal of old skirting, fitting, filling, priming, and painting. The cost depends on the room size, the skirting profile, the wall condition, and whether there are bay windows or awkward angles. Period properties with custom mouldings or hardwood skirting cost more. For multiple rooms, the cost per room decreases. The only way to get an accurate price is a free, no-obligation visit.
What tools do I need to replace skirting boards?
Essential tools: mitre saw (for clean angled cuts), coping saw (for internal corner scribe joints), tape measure, sharp pencil, drill with countersink bit, nail gun or hammer and nails, spirit level, crowbar or chisel for removing old skirting, caulking gun, sandpaper, and wood filler. Optional but helpful: electric sander, biscuit jointer for long walls, and a stud finder. Buying all these tools for one room costs £150–£300, which is why DIY only saves money if you already own them or plan to use them again.
How long does it take to replace skirting boards?
A professional takes 4–6 hours per room, including removal, fitting, filling, and painting. A competent DIYer takes 2 days for one room — one day for removal and fitting, one day for filling and painting. A beginner might take a weekend plus additional evenings. Bay windows, angled walls, uneven floors, and detailed mouldings all add time. For multiple rooms, a professional can complete 2–3 rooms in a day once set up.
Should I paint skirting boards before or after fitting?
Professional painters usually apply one coat of primer and one coat of undercoat before fitting, then the final topcoat after fitting. Painting before fitting means you can paint the back and edges properly, which prevents moisture getting in behind the skirting. However, fitting will scuff the paint, so the final topcoat must be applied after installation. Some professionals paint all coats after fitting, using careful masking to avoid getting paint on the floor and walls. Either method works if done carefully.
What is the best type of skirting board for a modern home?
MDF or softwood with a chamfered or torus profile at 119mm or 145mm height. MDF is cheap, uniform, and doesn't warp. Softwood is more traditional and takes paint beautifully. Chamfered profiles suit modern interiors with clean lines. Torus is more versatile — it works in both modern and traditional homes. For a minimalist look, consider a bullnose profile at 70mm or 95mm. Always buy 10% extra to allow for cuts and mistakes.
Can you replace skirting boards without damaging the wall?
Not always. Old plaster can crumble when you remove the old skirting, especially if it's been glued. Wallpaper will tear at the bottom edge. Even with careful removal using a sharp knife to break the seal, some damage is likely. Plan to touch up the paintwork or wallpaper along the bottom of the wall after fitting new skirting. Professionals minimise damage by scoring carefully, using thin pry bars, and working slowly. They also carry filler and touch-up paint to fix any damage immediately.
How do you match original skirting boards in a period home?
Matching original Victorian or Edwardian skirting requires sourcing from a specialist supplier who stocks reproduction mouldings. Companies like Period Mouldings or Vintage Mouldings stock profiles that match original designs. Alternatively, a carpenter with a spindle moulder can copy an existing piece. Take a sample of the original skirting to a timber merchant or specialist. Hardwood is more authentic than MDF for period properties. Expect to pay £20–£50+ per metre for matching hardwood skirting, compared to £5–£15 for standard MDF.
Should I replace skirting boards before or after painting the room?
Before. Always fit the new skirting before the final paintwork. Remove the old skirting, prepare the walls, fit the new skirting, then paint the walls, ceiling, and skirting together. This gives a clean finish with no gaps or scuffs. If you paint the room first, then replace the skirting, you'll damage the paintwork during removal and fitting. The only exception is if you're keeping the existing skirting and just painting it — in that case, paint the walls first, mask the skirting, then paint the skirting last.
What's the difference between MDF and timber skirting?
MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard) is made from compressed wood fibres. It's uniform, cheap, doesn't warp or twist, and takes paint well. But it's not as hard-wearing as timber, and if it gets wet it swells and crumbles. Timber (softwood or hardwood) is natural wood. It's more durable, can be stained or varnished as well as painted, and suits period properties better. Softwood (pine) can dent more easily and needs knotting solution before painting. Hardwood (oak, walnut) is expensive but beautiful and long-lasting. For most modern homes, MDF is fine. For period homes, timber is more authentic.
Services We Offer
Skirting board replacement needs both carpentry and decorating skills. Here's how we can help:
Carpentry
Precision fitting, mitre joints, scribe joints, and matching period profiles.
Interior Painting & Decorating
Filling, priming, undercoating, and a flawless topcoat finish.
Handyman Services
Small finishing jobs, adjustments, and those final touches.
Exterior Painting
For exterior woodwork, doors, and windows once the inside is done.
Need Skirting Boards Replaced in Surrey?
We fit, fill, and paint skirting boards as part of our decorating service. Clean corners, level fitting, and a finish that matches your room perfectly. Based in Kenley, covering all of Surrey.
Or email: info@recommended-tradesmen.co.uk
Last updated: July 2026. Based on 15+ years of fitting and painting skirting boards in Surrey homes. If you're planning skirting board replacement and need help deciding between DIY and professional, get in touch for a free quote.